It was just gone 9pm, at Lumley Junction, a busy, urban intersection in Freetown, Sierra Leone. The car windows windows were up and the doors were locked. Lumley Junction has an extremely unsavoury reputation. Ocadas – the city’s ubiquitous motorbike taxis – swarmed in all directions. I negotiated a path through the bulk of them, before one grazed the side of the car. The driver and I briefly locked eyes, then he roared off in the opposite direction. In another 10 or so